The Little Fish Market

May 29, 2018

Photo © XDB Photography 

 

On the way to The Little Fish Market, I find I’m more apprehensive than excited. I’ve become fed up with places where the food is good but not remotely sensational, where the tablecloths, glasses and other flummery seem more important than the fare, where the greeter – usually haughty and dressed in black – can’t even say ‘hello’ and where the bill requires real imagination to work out how it had turned out to be quite so high. Is this going to be another of those places?


My wife Jean and I walk into the 20-seat Little Fish Market to be greeted with a smile from Rob, who looks after all of the service on his own. He’s relaxed, gentle, calm and delightful. Happily, there is no flummery in sight. The floor is red-tiled, the walls are sage-green, and the wood tables are plain. There is a set menu (£65 per person), that’s it. It’s four fish courses and a dessert. Everyone is going to be eating the same food. I love the simplicity of it. 


Three amuse-bouches arrive in slow succession. Each is just lovely to look at and better to eat. There’s taramasalata in cucumber and basil oil with a warm blini, cured salmon with avocado in a sort of choux pastry cracked egg (crisp, crunchy, moist, slightly acidic and wonderful) and halibut surrounded by squid batter... [read more]


10 Upper Market Street, Hove, 01273 722213
 

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